The following article on androgyny in “male” fashion by Paula Montiel in Terra was originally published in Spanish. The translation, (admittedly less than perfect), is provided by Google. Follow the link at the bottom of this post to read the article in Spanish (if you can orovide a better translation for specific passages please include in the comments and I will either into the text)…
Man or woman? The new man wearing a dress and heels
Menswear winning over young imagination and a trend that blurs the border with the female wardrobe
Always more conservative, man expands his aesthetic boundaries and enters the field of women with an increasingly established trend that bet, without prejudice or taboos, for a more androgynous aesthetic teenage man and does not shy away skirt , ties or lace.
Something has changed suddenly in the sector of menswear. A week ago the fair Pitti Uomo , one of the most important men’s fashion, eliminating the space dedicated to women’s fashion and transformed it into ” Open ” , a space dedicated to fashion genderless, full of clothes for both sexes.
Not far away, in the UK, the Selfridge stores launched earlier this year, “Agender” a department that brings together the growing number of firms who make clothing that knows no gender, only fashion. Accustomed to a fifteen minute industry trends, these movements are not trivial.
MAN OR WOMAN?
This movement has been brewing time in the most avant-garde circles, but it was the Italian company Gucci which has decided to take to the catwalk at the hands of unknown Alessandro Michele, who has almost erased the gender of his last two collections.
His models, men and women, as androgynous look that is sometimes impossible to definition, have shown almost identical garments.
Suits jacket pants pattern seventies wide air that erases all differences silhouette; knit shirts, neck ties and flowers, of romantic inspiration, all washed down with floral prints, they have fought for the Week of Milan for a place in the wardrobe of men.
Even more surprising for a male gateway: shoes with hair maxibolsos, big bows and brooches neck plant (Michele seems to hate tie); followed by billowing silks, lace and crochet light on hats, shirts and pants that seemed miniskirts.
Michele has made a statement of intent very precise about his ideal of beauty. In fact, he defines it thus: “pure beauty”, which has nothing to do with gender but with aesthetics.
“This is my language, I can not speak another language. This is what I see,” he said in remarks to the magazine iD, shortly before his last fashion show in Paris a few days ago.
It is not the first time a designer sings this type of discourse. One of the pioneers, but with much less media noise was JW Anderson, the young creative director of Loewe, who two years ago began to march to the very old Spanish house by the way of androgyny.
Inspired by the Mediterranean, the young artist arranged a collection paired with a high dose of ambiguity. Men and women differed only a broad outline of fishing pants, large shirts and scarves to toe hiding any curve.
But this movement have also joined talents as Anne Demeulemeester and Haider Ackermann, and there are designers working covertly with this aesthetic without getting full.
Raf Simmons men devised a proposal for next season flirting with children’s aesthetic and feminine identity in pieces like a sweater short impossible and oversized bag, accompanied by strings impossible.
In a nod to fashion without borders, Ricardo Tisci Givenchy filled parade of suits, in which the pants appeared replaced by the skirt, and in which the male models were interspersed with women like Naomi Campbell or Kendall Jenner.
A proposal that explores the man in the closet of a woman, that still surprises many, if not because “half the men on the planet wear skirts”, as used to say the designer Miguel Adrover, who conquered the catwalk in New York the decade of the nineties of the last century.